ASA Rule that Pentapeptides are not Anti-ageing

Pentapeptides, lauded as anti-ageing miracles by the likes of Olay in their adverts for products such as Regenerist, are not effective at reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, according to the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA). 

Following a complaint received by a doctor who challenged whether there was scientific evidence to justify the claim that pentapeptides can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, the ASA initiated its own investigation and came to the conclusion that the advert for Olay Regenerist skin cream should not be broadcast as it stands because there is not sufficient
 evidence to support the claims made.

Source: Cosmetics Design Europe

What are pentapeptides?

In simple terms they are five amino acids linked in a chain. The overall term for linked amino acid chains is peptides. If there are two amino acids they are called dipeptides, if it is three - tripeptide etc. Peptides have numerous useful functions within the body but most studies on the skin benefits of peptides have been conducted in cell cultures not on human beings and a study conducted by Proctor & Gamble on human test subjects does little to support any anti-ageing claims. According to the ASA the majority of test subjects in the paper published by P&G in the peer reviewed International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2005), reported no effect.  

Peptides cannot usually penetrate the skin and maintain stability due to their hydrophilic (water-loving) nature. In addition, when they are able to penetrate the skin enzymes can break them down, dramatically inhibiting their effects.