Europe Bans Two Chemicals From Cosmetics

The European Union has prohibited two chemicals from being used in cosmetic products, in a recent amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive. From November 5, 2009 companies are barred from using diethylene glycol (DEG) or phytonadione. This action has been taken following the discovery of high levels of DEG in some toothpaste products from other markets. Although a representative of the industry trade association, the Cosmetics, Toiletries and Perfumery Association (CTPA) suggested that reputable brands do not use DEG, trace levels are often present as an impurity in widely used ingredients such as glycerol.

In peer reviewed scientific studies the toxic solvent DEG (also used in hydraulic fluids) has been found to cause central nervous system (CNS) depression, degenerative legions in the liver and kidneys, abdominal pain, vomiting, headaches, haemorraging into the gastrointestinal tract and lungs, convulsions and death. In 1937 DEG caused over 100 deaths when it was accidentally used in a pharmaceutical preparation. This actually prompted the inception of the US Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act in 1938.

In 2007, counterfit toothpastes imported from China into the US were found to contain DEG, which had caused adverse reactions such as headaches and nausea in those who had used the toothpastes. China has now banned companies from using this chemical in toothpastes.

Phtyonadione, according to the Directive, a form of vitamin K given to patients suffering from abnormal blood clotting diseases, may cause allergic reactions after topical application.

Restrictions also apply to other ingredients under the amendment to the Cosmetics Directive including diethylene glycol monobutyl ether (DEGBE) and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether (EGDE), and neither of these ingredients are permitted for use in aerosol or spray products. These compounds are both of the glycol ether family.

Glycol ethers are often used in industrial solvents, most of them are readily absorbed through the skin and can dissolve the skin’s protective oils. Some glycol ethers evaporat rapidly reaching hazardous levels in the air. Overexposure to glycol ethers can cause anaemia, intoxication, nausea and skin irritation. Acute short term exposure can cause fluid accumulation in the lungs and kidney and liver damage. Glycol ethers have also been shown to induce spontaneous abortions in those occupationally exposed, as well as reduced sperm counts.

The EU have slapped a maximum concentration of 9 percent on both DEGBE and EGDE, when used as a solvent in hair dye products, but it’s questionable whether they should be used at all given the toxicity of glycol ethers and the likelihood of inhaling these compounds and absorbing them through the scalp when using hair dye products containing these glycol ethers. Other glycol ethers are also used in nail polish and nail polish removers which are easily inhaled in the ambient air.

Additionally from February 5, 2010 the solvent toluene will be restricted to a maximum concentration of 25 per cent in nail products. The Directive also states that inhalation by children should be avoided.

Personally I think toluene should be banned completely from any cosmetic products. Toluene is produced during the manufacture of petrol and other fuels from crude oil and is used in the production of paints, paint thinners, lacquers, rubbers and adhesives. This volatile organic compound (VOC) targets the central nervous system (CNS) when inhaled, with low to moderate levels causing symptoms such as fatigue, confusion, colour vision loss, headaches and nausea according to the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR) maintained by the US government Department of Health and Human Services. It is designated as hazardous waste by another US government body, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and listed by the State of California in Proposition 65 as a reproductive toxicant.

According to the EPA, the highest concentrations of toluene usually occur in indoor air from common household products, such as paints, paint thinners, synthetic fragrances and nail polish, as well as cigarette smoke. Toluene is reported to cause asthma in previously healthy individuals and its EU classification indicates that toluene is highly flammable, irritating to skin, harmful to health by prolonged exposure through inhalation, presents a possible risk of harm to the unborn child, may cause lung damage if swallowed and its vapours may cause drowsiness and dizziness. Toluene can also be contaminated with the carcinogen, benzene.

Despite this a quarter of a bottle of nail polish can consist of this incredibly toxic substance. Whilst restricting the concentration is a welcome move, it really does not go far enough!